The south shore of Nova Scotia is known for its picturesque small towns where fishing is still an important part of local economies, and for its historic buildings, artist galleries, restaurants, surfing beaches and resorts. [All photos Max Vollmer, Click on any image to enlarge]
Le Have galleries along the waterfront.Westcote Bell Pottery in LeHaveLarge ceramic jar with iconic images of Nova ScotiaArtwork, Le Have
On Sunday, Karl, Stephi and I had dinner at the historic White Point Inn. Beaches there and nearby attract surfers from as far away as Halifax when the waves are good.
Karl and his surfboard at Stephi’s house in LeHaveWhite Point Inn dates from 1928.Karl and Stephi checking out the surf (??) at White Point.
I stayed in the Dockside Hotel in Lunenberg Sunday night with a room overlooking the harbor. Lunenberg was founded in 1753 by German immigrants and is known for its lobster fishery and its colorful historic Old Town which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sunrise over Lunenberg Harbor from my room at the Dockside Hotel.Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic (right) and the side trawler, Cape Sable (center), from my room.Lunenberg lodges and restaurants on the waterfront.Lunenberg waterfront.The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. The racing schooner, Bluenose II, moored on the left.Power and sail exist side by side in this working port.Steel hull 3-master.Lobster traps on the dock..“Life is better on a boat.” Is it?
The Old Town streets rise steeply from the waterfront. Homes facing the harbor date from the 1700’s and 1800’s. There is no shortage of churches including St. John’s Anglican Church of Canada, founded along with the town in 1753, and built in the second half of the 18th century.
Steeper than it looks!Spotted in a gallery window.Bright colors prevail.Entry doors receive a lot of attention.Hilltop home built in the 1700’s with two interior chimneys serving four fireplaces on the 1st and 2nd floors for heat.Side entrance.Fine old homes dating from the earliest years built for ship’s captains and Lunenberg’s prosperous families.St. John’s Anglican Church of Canada.Founded in 1953, built within the first quarter century of Lunenberg’s settlement.The La Cloche Jessen bell in front of St. John’s.A reminder that shipbuilding and seafaring have been a part of Lunenberg for going on 300 years.A walking path down to the harborBlack granite pillars on the dock at the waterfront bear the names of ships and their crew members, based in Lunenberg, lost to the sea. The first name recorded is from 1898, but no doubt unknown others preceded him. The losses drop dramatically after the 1970’s with modern boats and communications. The last local crewman lost at sea was in 2016.
We lost Stan Rogers, Canadian singer songwriter, in 1983 at age 34, but not before he left us memorable songs from the Maritimes. A Stan Rogers music festival is held each year in Halifax in his honor.
I made a mid-Winter trip down to the SE corner of Oregon, in part to find some open space amid the pandemic, but also for my first glimpse of the Owyhee Canyonlands. This remote area is very sparsely populated by cattle ranchers and some sheep herders. To give you and idea, one sign I passed read, “Next gas 120 miles.” I hit a spate of dry weather which was fortunate because the desert soil turns to a slippery and sticky gumbo when wet. During the day I needed 4WD on the Leslie Gulch-Succor Creek Byway which is mud in winter. Here are a few photos. [Click on any image to enlarge, All photos Max Vollmer]
This was just before sunset at my first campsite NW of Burns Junction. Overnight low was 28 degrees F, enough to freeze the mud which made it easier to break camp in the morning.
This was my setup at Succor Creek State Park alongside the Owyhee River. Dinner that evening was Beef Stroganoff with egg noodles, sliced red pear with some cheese, and hot coffee.
Darkness fell around 5:30 p.m. and the pre-dawn light didn’t amount to much until 5:30 a.m. That makes for a long night in the sack. When I packed up and departed on my last morning along the Owyhee, it was 22 degrees F. I had hot coffee and cleared out while the mud was frozen and shallow puddles were iced over, but not before picking a bunch of sage along the river bank to perfume the truck cab.
Winter colors in the canyonlands are not much to brag about.
To live content with small means; to seek elegance rather than luxury, and refinement rather than fashion; to be worthy, not respectable; and wealthy, not rich; to study hard, think quietly, talk gently, act frankly… this is my way. (Anonymous)
Max Vollmer, Click on any image to enlarge]
